Day of the Devils: A Vibrant Brunca Tradition in Costa Rica’s Southern Pacific

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Costa Rica’s rich cultural heritage is deeply woven into the traditions of its indigenous communities. Among these, the Brunca people of the Southern Pacific region celebrate one of the most captivating and symbolic festivals: El Día de los Diablitos, or the Day of the Devils. This centuries-old tradition, held in Boruca and Rey Curré villages, is a powerful representation of indigenous resistance, history, and identity. If you want to experience Costa Rica beyond its beaches and jungles, this extraordinary event offers an unparalleled cultural immersion.

The History and Significance of the Day of the Devils

The Day of the Devils is more than just a festival—it is a theatrical reenactment of the Brunca people’s resistance against Spanish colonial forces. The event, which takes place annually from December 30 to January 2 in Boruca and later in late January or early February in Rey Curré, symbolizes the battle between the indigenous Brunca warriors (diablitos) and the Spanish conquistadors, represented by a bull.

Rooted in pre-Columbian traditions, this celebration serves as a reminder of the Brunca people’s resilience. While the Spanish forces ultimately conquered Costa Rica, the spirit and traditions of the indigenous communities have endured. The festival is an artistic and ceremonial homage to this history, expressed through dance, handcrafted masks, and storytelling.

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Photo Credit: Robert Isenberg Tico Times

The Rituals and Traditions of the Festival

During the festival, Brunca men don elaborate wooden masks carved in the shapes of devils, animals, and mythical creatures, painted in vibrant hues and adorned with natural materials. These Boruca masks, famous for their intricate craftsmanship, are a key cultural symbol and a sought-after souvenir for visitors interested in authentic indigenous art.

The festival begins with the diablitos gathering in their colorful attire, chanting and moving rhythmically to the sounds of traditional drums and flutes. The climax of the celebration comes with the arrival of the bull—a metaphor for the Spanish conquerors. The diablitos engage in a simulated battle, symbolizing their fierce resistance. Though the bull ultimately defeats them, representing the historical conquest, the diablitos rise again, highlighting their enduring spirit and cultural survival.

This ritual is not only a performance but also a deeply spiritual event for the Brunca people. It reinforces their identity, connects younger generations to their ancestry, and ensures the survival of their traditions.

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Photo Credit: Robert Isenberg Tico Times

Visiting the Festival: A Unique Cultural Experience

For travelers interested in experiencing Costa Rica’s indigenous heritage firsthand, attending the Day of the Devils is an unforgettable experience. Visitors are welcomed into the community, where they can witness the performances, admire traditional craftsmanship, and even sample chicha, a fermented corn drink commonly enjoyed during the festivities.

While Boruca and Rey Curré are relatively remote, the journey is well worth the effort for those seeking an authentic cultural adventure. The communities are located within Costa Rica’s Southern Pacific region, an area known for its stunning landscapes, lush rainforests, and rich biodiversity.

Where to Stay: Enchanting Hotels in the Southern Pacific

For travelers exploring the region, two outstanding Enchanting Hotels offer exceptional stays near the Brunca territory:

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Cristal Ballena Resort & Spa. Big pool and spectacular views

Cristal Ballena Boutique Hotel & Spa

Located near Uvita, Cristal Ballena Boutique Hotel & Spa is an ideal base for exploring the Southern Pacific region. Overlooking the Pacific Ocean and surrounded by lush rainforest, this hotel provides luxurious comfort while keeping you close to the cultural and natural wonders of the area. After a day of cultural immersion, guests can relax by the infinity pool, indulge in gourmet dining, or embark on adventures to Marino Ballena National Park.

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Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge

For a truly immersive nature experience, Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge offers an eco-luxury retreat in Golfo Dulce, accessible only by boat. This sustainable lodge is perfect for travelers seeking tranquility and connection with nature. While staying at Nicuesa, visitors can enjoy kayaking, wildlife spotting, and sustainable tourism practices that honor the region’s indigenous and natural heritage.

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Photo Credit: Lindsay Fendt The Tico Times

Why Experience the Day of the Devils?

Attending El Día de los Diablitos is a journey into the heart of Costa Rica’s indigenous culture. It’s a chance to witness a living tradition that has been passed down for generations, appreciate intricate indigenous art, and reflect on the history that shaped the nation.

For culture and history enthusiasts, this festival is an unparalleled experience that goes beyond Costa Rica’s well-known eco-tourism attractions. Whether you are staying at the luxurious Cristal Ballena Boutique Hotel & Spa or the serene Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge, your visit to the Southern Pacific region will be enriched by the deep cultural connections and natural beauty that define this extraordinary part of Costa Rica.

Plan your journey today and immerse yourself in the mystical traditions of the Brunca people—an experience that will leave you with a deeper appreciation of Costa Rica’s diverse heritage.

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